TYPICAL POPULAR waterfall — concrete viewpoint with rails and a gaggle of noisy tourists. If you're tired of the Jog falls (now mostly non-existent) and the Kutralam routine, then head to Meenmutty waterfalls in Wayanad district, Kerala. It is the second largest waterfall in Kerala, and is as close to a natural setting as one can get. No human interference whatsoever.

Located in lush moist deciduous forests, 290 kms south of Bangalore and 29 km south of Kalpetta, the district headquarters of Wayanad, the waterfall is a trekker's paradise. There are no buses so one has to get off at the Kalpetta-Ooty Road and hike for two km to get to the falls.

The USP of this waterfall is that the water plunges about 300 metres in three stages and all the three stages require separate treks. The Meenmutty, Soochipara, and Kanthanpara waterfalls combined, feed the Chaliyar river.

Green drive

The drive from Kalpetta to the turn-off to the falls is truly one to savour. The winding road passes through scenery right out of a picture postcard. The road is surrounded on both sides by lush green tea plantations and the odd teak. The sight of the sprinklers shooting water in the air and plantation workers picking leaves is a sight for jaded urban eyes.

Sleepy villages that are forever shrouded in mist dot the route, and of course there are the chayakadas (teashops) that serve piping hot, garden fresh tea. One such scenic shop along the road run by Zubair is famous for its scenic backdrop. It is just down the road from Meppadi. When you get there, ask Zubair to serve you that special glass of `one metre chaya'.

When you reach the edge of the forest you begin to hear the waterfall. It is not a deafening roar, but the gentle sound of water rippling over rocks. The sound is motivation enough to trek to the falls. You have to climb over hillocks and hack through dense foliage to reach the edge of the falls. Once at the edge, it is an easy, but slippery climb down the smooth rocks to reach the water.

Risky climb

You can spend hours lazing in the cool water that flows all year round, irrespective of the state of the monsoon. The climb to the summit of the falls is recommended only for experienced trekkers. Also to get to the falls itself, it is necessary to take a local guide along. You can camp overnight at the falls or at the summit, but it requires special permission from the local forest officials, as the area is elephant and leopard territory.

The best time to visit the falls is between November and May because the water is too torrential during the post-monsoon months. Accommodation can be found either at Kalpetta or Sulthan Bathery. There are regular buses to Kalpetta from Bangalore and any bus going to Calicut will also do. Home stays at nearby plantations can also be tried.

You can contact Blue Yonder, an organisation that works towards development of the local people. They organise treks to the waterfall and also arrange for home stays at plantations. Call 25213902 or 25213902 or dash off an email to gopi@theblueyonder.com.

ANAND SANKAR

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